The idea is to have an upside down triangle of light under the eye on the opposite side of the face to the light source. For this, position a flash with a softbox at a 45° angle in front and to the side of the sitter. If you’d like more definition Rembrandt lighting is another simple single light technique where there’s more shadow on the face to add definition. A reflector facing upwards on the sitter’s lap will reduce the shadow under the chin. This works well because it provides even light and a pleasing shadow below the nose.
Lighting can be as simple as a single light set-up where you position a softbox at a height just above and in front of the sitter’s head and pointing down at a 45° angle. Two lights will always provide more control and options than a single light source, but if you only have one flash you can use a reflector to reduce shadows as required. If you don’t have a studio kit, off-camera flash can work just as well, but a softbox remains essential for producing an even spread of diffused light.
The most common way to light portraits is using one or two studio lights with a softbox providing diffused key light.
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